A Painting of Richard Wright Hangs in Normandy Town Hall

 Taking You Outside Black Paris

How do we keep alive the vitality and relevance of Richard Wright and his time in France - outside the classroom? We follow his footsteps back to where he wrote, we meet the people he enjoyed, we walk the ground he did. Then we give back something to keep the flame alive.

In celebrating his birthday September 4 (1908), I’d like to share with you a trip that sought to do just that.  

In April 2012, I expanded the annual African Americans in Paris study trip of University of Lausanne to include Richard Wright's Normandy. The international students of Professor Agnieszka Soltysik had pored over Wright's work, now they could physically revisit the farmhouse grounds he once owned, and drink in the calm setting at the nearby writers colony where many of his haiku were penned. 

University of Lausanne students at the Town Hall of Ailly with our hosts on the left.

Our 1-day visit had several other goals. First, to present to the town hall of Ailly a painting that would remind all who passed there of the great American writer who lived among them in the late 1950s.  The painting, made by a young Paris-born artist, Shannon Figuereo, portrays Wright as well as an interpretation of his family’s home.    

Julia Browne presenting painting of Wright to Ailly Municipal Councillor Evelyne JUHEL

It was an emotional ceremony on all sides. Mme Juhel was very touched to receive our gift and promised the painting would be displayed in the new wing of the town hall under renovation. The town administration gave to us a beautiful book on the history of their town, along with a written presentation by its author, local historian Eric Portier. 

"You are welcomed and in fact we are proud to meet you, who came in a kind of literary pilgrimage. I hope that the visit will engrave in your heart the gratitude to that man who fought for a better respect of human beings."  Eric Portier

We, in turn, were really delighted by the unexpected reception they so kindly prepared for us. There was not a drop of the local cider nor a crumb of the regional sablé biscuits (butter biscuits)  left!   

Next, we visited the grounds of La Folie Muse, the farmhouse where Wright enjoyed playing ‘gentleman farmer’ with his family. It was wonderful to revisit this residence after having seen it first when working as a production assistant on Madison Lacy’s PBS documentary Black Boy in 1993. 

At Wright's farmhouse - our guide and  Mr. Hesloin (r) who knew Wright.

Back on the bus, we followed Wright’s next move -  about 15 minutes down the road to the Moulin D’Andé. At the time, this 12th century mill turned artists retreat allowed writers, artists and musicians to develop their craft in a bucolic, friendly atmosphere. Today, the cultural centre still carries that mission. And it is still run by the woman who invited Richard Wright after the Sorbonne’s 1956 Negro Writers Conference. 

Moulin d'Andé Cultural Centre

After a sumptuous buffet lunch, the students, professors and I hung onto every word of Maurice Pons, a French writer also residing at the Moulin d’Andé and friend of Wright. Oh, the stories he told, the pictures he showed!

Author Maurice Pons opening the Moulin d'Andé Book of Memories

Wright relaxing at the Moulin d'Andé

View from a writers cottage

Put This On Your Itinerary

Ailly lies about an hour east of Paris. It's a community of 1052 souls - about the same number at Richard Wright's time. The Aillytiens, as they're called, take great effort to maintain their 'home sweet home' feel of old time French country living. But visitors are warmly welcome! There's even a soft spot for Americans. On the 24th August 1944, American troops liberated the village, as they did many others in Normandy.

A trip down Richard Wright's lane can be arranged for individual travelers and for groups. And, if you've got a novel you'd love to write in this peace and calm, or a musical score to finish, it doesn't get much more idyllic than here (and the food's great).

Romancing Paris Past & Present

Isn't it the height of romance – a wedding in Paris? Or meeting that special someone, honeymooning or spending your first married years in the City of Lights?

Some of Black Paris' most well-known and talented expatriates did just that. We've put together a roster of just a few of the African-Americans who have tested the dream.

And after you're all fired up and misty-eyed, read on for advice/reality check from Paris-based wedding planner Kim Petyt of Parisian Party.

The True Art of Marriage

Painter Henry O. Tanner & Jessie Macauley Olssen

Jessie Olssen and son Jessie Ossawa Tanner

In 1897, Tanner met the tall, lively American of Swedish-Scottish ancestry in Barbizon, a small town south of Paris, home of the famous French school of landscape painting and artists colony. Although he had already faced the challenge of being the lone Black painter in his Philadelphia art school and now in Paris, Tanner still worried about the complications of marrying someone of another race.

Love triumphed! They married on December 14, 1899 in Bloomsbury, England, honeymooned in Martigues in the south of France, then spent the next 25 years between their homes in Paris and Normandy.

Jessie's energetic personality was the perfect complement for Tanner's more reflective, reserved nature. Between them reigned an intimate companionship and a stable home life with their only child, Jessie Ossawa.

The Decorated Airman and The Aristocrat

City Hall of 10th district

Aviator Eugene Bullard & Marcelle de Straumann    

In 1923, Eugene Bullard married Marcelle Eugenie Henriette de Straumann, the daughter of a wealthy Parisian family.

He was introduced to the wealthy de Straumann family by two painter friends and despite his working-class occupation as an exercise trainer (to the rich and lesser so), the aristocratic parents had no objection to him taking their daughter dancing. On July 4, 1922, with great trepidation, he declared his love for Marcelle to them. Just over a year later, July 17, 1923, the couple were married in an early afternoon civil ceremony in the City Hall of the 10^th arrondissement (district).

The wedding party guests included high-brow relatives on her side and on his, friends from the military, the entertainment and sports world. They made merry at the Brasserie Universelle, at the corner of Avenue Opera and Avenue Danou, and in French style the wedding party stretched late in the afternoon. Come nightfall, the father of the bride hired 10 taxicabs to shuttle the guests up the hill to Montmartre where they continued celebrating until well into the wee hours.

The lovebirds honeymooned in the chic Atlantic seaside resort town of Biarritz, near the Spanish border. Their first apartment had a magnificent view of the Eiffel Tower, bien sur, across the River Seine. The couple had two surviving daughters, Jacqueline born in 1924 and Lolita Josephine in 1927.

Ill-Fated Union

Leon Crutcher & Mary Boyard

In 1925, Leon Crutcher, a pianist from Philadelphia and Mary-Louise Boyard, a dance hall hostess, met in a club in Nice where they both worked. They moved to Paris and found work in the jazzy, somewhat shady world of Montmartre. On Christmas Day 1925, they got married but the honeymoon period was short lived. Seems the couple chanelled their passion into their many fights, and in February 1926 after a particularly heated one, the new Mrs. Crutcher shot her husband dead. Arrested, she pleaded innocence, hadn't meant to kill him. The French court at the time allegedly went easy on women who were charged with crimes of passion. She was found not guilty.

Entertainment Royalty

Ada 'Bricktop' Smith & Peter Ducongé

She was a wildly popular entertainer and legendary club owner, he was an African-American saxophonist from New Orleans. They married in December 1926 in the City Hall of the 9^th arrondissement. Settling in for the long term, they bought a home in the fashionable Paris suburb of Bougival (playground of the Impressionist painters). They led the independent life of a childless couple and never missed a night hosting celebrities, aristocrats and jazz lovers in Lower Montmartre. After some years Bricktop found out about an affair he had with a young African-American woman she had taken under her wing in Paris and though they did not divorce, she never slept with him again.

 The Many Dreams of Josephine

Josephine Baker & Jean Lion & Jo Bouillon

J. Baker & Jean Lion

J. Baker & Jo Bouillon

Josephine's third husband was Jewish French industrialist Jean Lion, who taught Josephine to fly and allegedly proposed to her mid-air. They married on November 30, 1937. As the wife of a Frenchman she could now claim French citizenship and within four days obtained her French passport.

Her fourth marriage, to orchestra leader Jo Bouillon, took place on June 3, 1947, on her forty-first birthday. The civil service was performed at the Chateau des Milandes in Dordogne, followed by a religious ceremony in the adjacent Gothic chapel, and a reception. Bouillon said that in marrying Baker he was also marrying her dream of universal harmony between races, and they went on to demonstrate that possibility by adopting their Rainbow Tribe of children.

A Long Engagement and a Soulful Marriage

Chester Himes & Lesley Packard

Lesley Packard & Chester Himes

 

Award-winning detective novelist Himes met 30 year old Englishwoman Lesley Packard on the terrace of the Cafe Tournon, half a block from Luxembourg Gardens. Packard, who worked for the Paris Herald Tribune, was sitting with Himes' good friend William Gardner Smith. The ladies man had met his match, “She was Irish-English with blue grey eyes and very good looking,” he wrote in his autobiography My Life of Absurdity. Although it took 19 years before they actually tied the knot, their marriage lasted until his death.

And If You Wanted to Tie the Knot in Paris Today?

To find out what getting married in Paris is like today, I asked expat wedding/event planner extraordinaire Kim Petyt, Owner and Managing Director of a Parisian Events, a full-service wedding and event planning agency.

Here's her advice - slash - reality check:

Can just anyone get married in Paris?

"Getting legally married in France as a foreigner will be one of the strongest tests to your “coupledom” as you’ve probably gone through so far. Forget about Couples Fear Factor - If you can survive this, you can survive anything…"

What's the main hurdle?

"In order to be legally wed in France, one of the couple needs to have lived in France, in the district around the city hall in which they plan to marry, for a minimum of 40 consecutive days before the wedding. Some sources say 30 days, but you have to add on an additional 10 days for the city hall to publish the Banns - a public announcement that is put up in City Hall for 10 days preceding your marriage that lists your names and your impending marriage date so that any estranged husbands or wives have one last chance to find you before you’re married off…"

Oh, is that all?

"Before asking for that sabbatical from work, though, you should know that this one little detail is actually a big one. You must show 2 proofs of domicile (“justificatifs de domicile” )- a gas or electricity bill (a cell phone bill doesn’t count), a rent receipt, a lease, a French social security card, etc. If you are planning on renting an apartment here on a short-term lease in order to meet this marriage requirement, know that it could take several months before you receive any of the above documents."

Say I meet the 40-day requirement, is it smooth sailing from then on?

"It’s important, (and I can’t stress this enough), that you get the official, most up-to-date list (of required documents) from the mairie (City Hall) in the district (arrondissement) that you are planning to marry."

Oh-oh, that list sound ominious. What will I need?

• A valid passport or a French residence permit (“carte de sejour”)

• A birth certificate (”extrait d’acte de naissance“): Most city halls require that you present an original copy of a complete birth certificate (with full details of your parents) issued within 3 months of your wedding date along with a sworn translation.

• A certificate of celibacy (”attestation tenant lieu de declaration en vue de mariage ou de non-remariage“) less than 3 months old

• An Affidavit of law (”certificat de coutume“) The Affidavit of Law certifies that the American citizen is free to get married in France and that the marriage will be recognized in the United States. Only an attorney licensed to practice in both France and the United States may execute this document.

• A medical certificate (“certificat médical prénuptial”): You both must get a pre-nuptial medical certificate which says that you were examined by a doctor “en vue de mariage.” The marriage banns cannot be published until medical certificates have been submitted to the mairie.

• Proof of domicile (”justificatifs de domicile“) (see above)

• A “certificat du notaire“: If you are planning on having a pre-nuptial agreement, you must go through a lawyer (a notaire) who will provide a “certificat du notaire” which must be submitted to the mairie as well. It must have been drawn up no more than 2 months prior to the marriage.

• If either of you were previously married, you must provide a certified copy of the death certificate of the deceased spouse or a certified copy of the final divorce decree.

Okay, so we don't scare easily and this is really our dream. The second part of our dream is having the ceremony in one of the city's majestic churches.

"I think it’s also worthwhile to mention here that, for a foreigner, it isn’t exactly a cakewalk to get married in a “plain ole” church in Paris. One of the biggest things to keep in mind is that before a Catholic church in France will even consider marrying you, you must first have a civil ceremony either in France or in your home country. Once that is sorted, you should then put on your Sunday’s best, and get thee to the church in question for a little face-time.

The tricky part is that, in order to get married in a church in France, you have to get direct permission from the priest of the church, and quite frankly- he may not want to do it.

I suggest that, if you can, you and your betrothed start going to the church for a while before you first meet with the priest- and make sure that he sees you. When you do have your first meeting with him, be as reverent and respectful as the meeting deserves, and be prepared to plead your case.

As anyone who has spent any time at all in France knows, the first answer is always “non“- just ignore that one and ask again in a different way. If, after the fourth or fifth ask, the answer is still no, then I would suggest you move on to Plan B- a symbolic ceremony in a private chapel, or maybe a blessing ceremony in a non-denominational Parisian church."

Ouch! What other differences should I be prepared for?

"My husband and I were once at a wedding here in France when, around 11:30PM- just as dessert was being served, a couple mysteriously showed up and sat down at our table. I assumed that they must have had an emergency during the evening, and came to the wedding as soon as they could make it. After chit-chatting with them for a bit though, I realized that I had already spoken to them earlier during the day. I mentioned this to my husband, and he casually remarked, “Oh, they must have just been invited for the dessert” Me: “Um, WHAT?” Lui: “Yeah, Jean-Luc only works with Philippe, so they were probably invited just for the dessert”. Me (completely dumbfounded) “And they came????” Lui: ” Oh, you Americans are so sensible (sensitive)”

A guest in France can be invited to all, or only part of the wedding festivities- even JUST dessert around midnight, and they won’t get offended by it!"

Okay, I'll be in France and I want to do like the French, what's my wedding going to be like?

"A typical French wedding lasts all day AND into the next. It starts with a civil ceremony at City Hall in the morning, and is followed by a religious ceremony, then a vin d’honneur (a small cocktail reception), followed by a 4 or 5-course meal, and then dancing. The dancing often starts between dinner courses, in order to give guests a chance to work up more of an appetite! A typical French wedding doesn’t end until 3:00 or 4:00AM, or even later."

All above advice copyright Parisian Party

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Sounds daunting, but where there's a will there's a beautiful solution!






For more indepth details on getting married in Paris, take a walk down the aisles of Kim's blog Parisian Party - Tales of An American Wedding Planner in Paris.

Beyond Black Paris

In this special Black History Month series, I'm inviting you to venture beyond Black Paris and discover places where the Diaspora and France intersect.

Many of the African-American links to France are centred in Paris. We all know, however, that France was entangled in the Black Diaspora long before and during the time African Americans have benefited from the mythology of tolerance.

Today, there are many cities and towns around the country to experience African-American and Diaspora heritage sites and contemporary points of interest.

Some places have only recently begun to acknowledge and redress their involvement in slavery (Nantes, Bordeaux), some venerated the contribution of WWI & II soldiers (Normandy). In one, you'll find statue of the Senegalese infantrymen ( Mediterranean city of Frejus), in another, the museums to a great men of culture.

Alongside the Black connection, I'll give you some intriguing reasons to put these places on your itinerary.

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First in the spotlight

NANTES

Point of Interest: Abolition of Slavery Museum (description below) opening March 2012. The only one of its kind in France.

Connection: Nantes was the largest slave trade port in France (out of 17).

Facts: Between the 17^th and 19^th centuries, Nantes organized 43% of the French expeditions along the Slave Trade Triangle, carrying 450,000 slaves to the Caribbean colonies.
 A city made wealthy by slave trade, some of homes and offices of the industry are still standing, so are the carved stone heads of Africans into buildings.

Fast Forward

The first international convention to study slavery was held in Nantes, in 1985. Out of that came the Association Shackles of Memory, an international non-profit which works in conjunction with the University of Nantes to educate through conferences and school programs. They give walking tours for all ages focusing on the city's slave trade history, abolition, and present day activities.

The memory-keepers are very active and vocal. Last May 10, 2011, to commemorate ten years since the passing of the Taubira Law that declared slavery a crime against humanity, a controversial re-enactment of slave and slave-masters was led through the streets of Nantes. 

The ceremony was attended my Malcolm X's daughter. Also commenting was Deputy of Guyana Christiane Taubira, author of the 2001 Taubira Law. She emphasized that reviving the memory must go further - progress must continue in the education curriculum because it is education that will help understand and go beyond.

Here's the video, "Shocking Commemoration of Slavery in Nantes!" only available in French(1:40):

Key points: 

- The re-enactment dramatizing a past the city wants to take responsibility for.

- Ten years after the declaration of slavery as a crime against humanity, the Association of 10 May wanted to strike hard at consciences.

- Malaak Shabbaz says, “It's about time to heal."

- Images of the memorial site under construction.

- Octave Cestor, Municipal Councillor for African Caribbean Relations: “These deported men, women and children who had no proper grave, now have a place of memory.”

Related Sites

Rings of Memory along the river

The Abolition of Slavery Memorial Museum opens in March 24, 2012. Free entrance.

On a replanted esplanade at the very spot where the slave ships used to berth, 2,000 commemorative glass plaques recall the slave trade expeditions that started from Nantes, as well as the major trading posts in Africa and in America. 1,710 of the plaques name the ships and dates of departure, 290 name the ports of call and sale in Africa, Antilles, Americas and Indian Ocean.

An open air stairway leads underground to the heart of the Memorial. First thing you'll see is the Declaration of Rights of Man and the word Freedom in 50 languages of countries affected by the slave trade. Once in the underground, to your left you'll glimpse the Loire River between the pillars on which are inscribed excerpts of texts from 5 continents over 5 centuries. To the west, historic and geographic texts and images place the Atlantic slave trade into context, balancing the weight of historic facts with the fight against servitude yesterday and today. 

Visit Nantes

 Geographic location: 2 hours west by train from Paris Montparnasse station; capital of the Pays de la Loire region in northwestern France. Situated on the banks of the Loire River, 34 miles (55 km) from the Atlantic Ocean.

Population: 800,000+

Its Vibe: voted one of the best places to live in France, appreciated by young professionals who love the arts but don't want to live in Paris.

What Else to Do

• Carnaval de Nantes – April 1, 2012 – the second largest annual street fest in France (after Nice). Their specialty is giant performing marionettes, brainchild of the extraordinary home-grown, world renown street theatre group Royal de Luxe.

• 
  On the trail of Jules Verne – if you're a fan of the visionary author of 'Twenty Thousand Leagues Under The Sea', visit his home and places that inspired him. Year-round guided tours.
• Promenade Nantaise – get a panoramic view from the tower of the former LU biscuit factory now an eclectic arts centre + Turkish bath, stroll through the beautifully restored medieval Bouffay city centre, admire the superb gothic Saints Paul and Peter Cathedral, visit the Chateau of Dukes of Brittany which the city was built around.

Food Speciality: Nantes shortbread biscuits, Berlingot candies, galettes (crepes)

Regional wines: Muscadet

While You're in the Area

-  If you drive, pass through the Loire Valley - the Valley of Kings - and spend a few hours marveling at the splendid Chenonceau, Chambord and other castles

- Mont St. Michel to the north

- Chic seaside resorts and spas on the Brittany coast: La Baule (great for celebrity spotting) and Dinard.

 - St. Nazaire ship-building yards of the largest ocean liners, also a museum of historic liners.

Who Would've Guessed: there are 3 mosques in Nantes.

Twin Town/cooperative agreement with: Jacksonville, FL and Seattle, WA

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N E W S

A few months ago I became a Certified Agent for France designated by the France Tourism Development Agency.

This didn't exactly come out of the blue.  I began visiting France in the early 80s as a flight attendant, lived in Provence as a mature student then as a full-fledged Paris resident. After 17 years of offering tours of Black Paris, I'm ready to share my appreciation of this rich country and get you connected with all that great food, gorgeous countryside, and some pretty cool surprises along the way.

How about joining me on a private bus excursion from Paris to visit Josephine Baker's chateau in the south and nearby Bordeaux?

I'll be escorting you on a wonderful journey to discover the region that Josephine fell in love with - it's the land of a thousand castles, of beautifully preserved medieval towns, of lively and laden open air markets. But you'll never forget stepping back into Baker's life and achievements. 

Details:

- Private tour of Chateau des Milandes permanent exhibition of Josephine Baker's former home where she lived with her Rainbow Tribe family. Revel in the beautifully exhibited mementos, her recreated living spaces, and the extraordinary display of her private and public life.
- Explore Josephine Baker's Dordogne :  Sarlat, outstanding medieval town renown for its sprawling Saturday market of world famous local products. Visit the nearby UNESCO World Heritage site of prehistoric cave drawings at Lascaux.
- Discover Bordeaux's famous vineyards, the city's rich architectural setting, fine gastronomy, and learn about its slave-ship history.

Departure from Paris: Thursday May 3
Return to Paris: Tuesday May 8
Your package includes:
- private bus to Dordogne and Bordeaux region
- 3-star hotels for 5 nights

- full day Bordeaux wine tour including tastings
- private tour of Josephine Baker's chateau
- breakfast daily
- all transfers, taxes, fees and service charge

Please contact
Julia Browne info@walkingthespirit.com for Further Details and Registration.

Deadline to Register: March 15.

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Stay tuned for our next Beyond Black Paris spotlight.... after our Valentine's Day Lovefest.

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Did You Get Your Spirit of Black Paris Calendar?

 

Learn new facts year-round, beautiful original artwork

Special Black History Month price!

How Did Jazz Become French, Anyway?

Jazz at Juan-les-Pins

When I lived in Aix-en-Provence, we hopped from summer jazz fest to jazz fest all around the Provencal region and the South of France. I wasn’t a huge fan yet but the swaying, dancing all-ages crowd around me sure seemed to be. They were mouthing those lyrics and humming those tunes as if they’d grown up on the music.

In fact, most of them had. Across the country, radio stations had long been spinning homegrown jazz as often as American jazz – and their playlist lengthened every year. 

Used to be, when jazz first shocked and entertained Paris out of its World War I doldrums, that Black-played jazz was considered the only real jazz. Boatloads of musicians hit the Normandy shores and took the train straight for Lower Montmartre, aka Black Montmartre. Club owners and club goers couldn’t get enough; the local musicians, however, weren’t thrilled to be pressured to learn this foreign American music. 

And then there were the insightful fans who saw the future of French music in jazz and began the quest of elevating this American ‘pop’ music to an art form. The Jazz Hot Club, formed by Hughes Panassié and Charles Delauney , launched the first Jazz Magazine in Europe from their locale near Rue Pigalle. Here, eager young people could come try out the new sounds, meet the Americans, and gain confidence. Then, two of their protégés formed the first real French jazz band. Django Reinhardt and Stephane Grapelli and their Jazz Hot Quintet toured the region in the 30s, spreading the jazz gospel.

But the occupation of Paris by the Nazis sent Americans back stateside and outlawed so-called degenerate Negro music on the airwaves and in public places.  

"The fervent fans simply took their old New Orleans-style records down to the soundproof, underground cellar clubs of St.Germain-des-Pres and the Latin Quarter."

With no Americans around to show them the chops, and no new records being pressed and distributed, the young French resorted to imitating Jelly Roll Morton, Sidney Bechet, Louis Armstrong and Cab Calloway.

One particularly avid fan was Claude Luter, who formed a band reproducing the sounds of his idol, Sidney Bechet. By 1946, Les Lorientais were considered the best live jazz band, drawing crowds, known as Les Rats de Cave, to their hot, sweaty cellar club near Rue du Vieux-Colombier (6^th district). 

The Soundtrack of St.Germain-des-Pres

Like in the 20s, jazz was the music of the French youth. Thousands of them flocked to the St.Germain-des-Pres and Latin Quarter from their native provinces, creating a veritable revolution. They gathered by day in the smoky literary cafés – The Flore, Les Deux Magots, bickering over existentialism with their philosopher king Jean Paul Sartre, lunched at Bart’s on Rue Jacob, then around midnight headed for the jazz mecca. 

 

Among them was a lanky, balding, ambitious engineer, writer and poet Boris Vian. His nickname became The White Negro for his obsession with Black music and culture. Not surprising he was the one, in April 1947, to open the most infamous of the area’s clubs – The Tabou Club. The same kids who haunted the literary cafes by day, descended treacherous low-ceiling stone stairways into the smoky, damp, joyous cellars to boogey-woogey 'til the wee hours. Decked out in black market American jeans and plaid shirts bought off the GIs, they swung to the same well-scratched records, or to Vian’s old piano or his ever-present trumpet and house band. 

For the rebellious young, jazz was more than about music. At first it was their tool to rebel against the Nazi edict. It composed the soundtrack of their generation. And, by embracing Black American culture they felt they were proving themselves bigger than the American racism.

Return of the Masters

Boris Vian and Miles Davis

Then the Americans started returning to Paris after the war, looking to take up the glory where their 1920s predecessors had left off. The fledgling French jazz bands didn’t deny the American superiority, they paid their respects to the greats like Dizzy Gillespie who played Paris’ first International Jazz Festival in May 1948 held at the Salle Pleyel. 

They plunked down their francs for festivals featuring Max Roach, Charlie Parker, Lips Page, Buck Clayton, Kenney Clark, Coleman Hawkins and countless others. Parisian jazz fans stormed Vian’s next and just as famous club, Le Club Saint-Germain on Rue St. Benoit, blocking the narrow street by the hundreds, elbowing their way in to see Duke Ellington, Charlie Parker, Miles Davis and Sidney Bechet up close.

But they longed for the recognition that would convince the American musicians to play alongside the French. 

Bechet was the first to break the barrier, in 1949, joining forces with Claude Luter’s band. Bechet genuinely liked this fledgling French jazz, and they loved his talent for melodies that mixed European quadrilles with traditional jazz.

What also divided the French jazz fan world was the appearance of the new generation of jazz stars – the Beboppers.
If they couldn’t get in to the shows, they could hang around Hotel Louisiane on Rue de Seine until Bud Powell or Miles Davis and their friends emerged from their headquarters/rooming house.

Clubs like Le Caveau de la Huchette stuck with New Orleans style (to this day), while others embraced the smaller formations of Bebop. 

By the 1960s, the French musicians felt they’d earned their stripes and their fair share of club dates. A law, similar to one of the 1920s, limited the number of American-only bands played per night in the various venues.

These days, French jazz bands are plentiful; mixed French and Black bands are common. 

Back In The Day...

A few background facts :

• The jazz club, Chez Inez, opened 1949 by Inez Cavanaugh and located on rue Champollion, near the Sorbonne. The venue’s specialty was fried chicken and jazz. Pianist Art Simmons got his Paris start here. Cavanaugh had managed Duke Ellington, married Danish baron and noted jazz critic Timme Rosencrantz.

• The most well-known existing jazz club from post-war Paris is Caveau de la Huchette which opened in 1945. One American GI recalls using an army jeep to drive from Antwerp to Paris and finding the Caveau de la Huchette within two hours of his arrival. It was filled with soldiers, mostly Afro-American.

Its specialty was, given the late arrival of bebop to the capital, Dixieland jazz although Art Blakely and his Jazz Messengers played in 1972. Bechet and Armstrong played shows here in the 50s.

• On Rue de Sommerand, also near the Sorbonne, the Chez Moune nightclub was opened in ’48 by French West-Indian Moune de Rivel. Aaron Bridgers (a disciple of Art Tatum, and who accompanied singers such as Inez Cavanaugh and Muriel Gaines) started his Paris career here. As did Gordon Heath who began as a singer and player of folk guitar before opening his open club Cabaret de l’Abbaye near Rue Saint-Benoit in the 6^th.

• One of first ‘Saint-Germain-des-Pres’ type jazz club was La Rose Rouge in 1948. Located on Rue de Rennes, it was run by African dancer Feral Benga and Greek-Ethiopian Nikos Papadakis. On the program were professional musicians and dancers (Maya Angelou sang in the 50s, Billie Holiday headlined in 1958).

• Between 1947-9, Chez Honey was an African-American club gallery, near Montparnasse. Painter Herbert Gentry displayed works of young artists but also ran one of the first post-war jazz cafes. His wife Honey Johnson sang and Art Simmons played the piano. Many musicians performed here – Zoot Sims, Don Byas, Kenny Clarke, and James Moody often played with French musicians like Pierre Michelot. Duke Ellington played here. Singers included Jimmy Davis, Lena Horne, Moune de Rivel, and the Peters Sisters sang. Also: here in 1947 Kenny Clarke’s ‘Epistrophy’ became the first ‘bop’ record cut in France.

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Poster from Jazz A La Villette 2011

Upcoming Jazz Festival
JAZZ A LA VILLETTE  - August 31 - Sept 11, 2011
It's big, it's bold, and it gets cooler every year! This year's theme is: When Jazz Meets Funk & Hip Hop.

On the programme: Archie Shepp, Roy Hargrove, Maceo Parker plus Meshell Ndegeocello reinventing Prince's most controversial songs. Uh-huh!
Also nostalgic movies - Stormy Weather, Glory, Jungle Fever, Jazz Singer, even Gone With The Wind.
Plus a kid's programme.
See the full list and details here

Love Letters for Paris & France

For 200 years Paris has held a special home in the heart of African Americans.  Long before the sheer beauty of the place takes hold, there are expectations. Black history is chock full of alluring, mythical stories from Paris and France - longstanding acceptance and deep appreciation of Black culture, to start. Then what comes after the first coup de foudre? Some of us know the love affair never ends. At some point though, for those who linger, eventually new understanding sets in. 

I've gathered here a few reflections from writers, artists, abolitionists, poets and intellectuals. Their eye-opening moments transformed a sojourn into an important point of evolution. Whether folks looked to Paris as a place to soothe old hurts, to delight a grumbly heart, or simply to learn something about oneself, it seems that it came down / comes down to looking for love of some kind.                   Paris, on vous aime!

Lois Mailou Jones

Lois (Mailou) Jones, artist, future long-time teacher at Howard University :

“France gave me my stability, and it gave me the assurance that I was talented in that I should have a successful career. [Also] I remember that I had the most wonderful studio. The American University found it for me… it looked out over the city towards the Tour Eiffel. It had a loft and it had a roof garden. It was really paradise working in that studio of my dreams."

From an interview with Charles H. Rowell for Callaloo.

William Wells Brown, visiting in 1849 as a fugitive slave, a militant abolitionist, and as delegate to the Peace Congress:

"All Paris appeared to be on the Boulevards and looking as if the great end to life was enjoyment." 

From Sketches.

James Weldon Johnson, 1905:

"From the day I set foot in France I became aware of the working of a miracle within me. I was free from special scorn, special tolerance, special condescension... free to be merely a man."

Frederick Douglass, 1859:

“To think that I, once a slave on the Eastern shore of Maryland was experiencing all this… Now I was enjoying what the wisest and best of the world have bestowed for the wisest and the best to enjoy.”

From The Life and Times of Frederick Douglass.

Henry O.Tanner

Painter Henry O.Tanner, arrived in 1891. A former Sunday School superintendent and advocate for temperance, he was constantly surprised by cultural differences and wary of being seduced by French customs:

“But primarily, I was really afraid… I might grow to like it, that there might be lurkng somewhere within me an appetite which, once awakened, I could not control.”

From The Story of an Artist’s Life, H.O.Tanner.

Langston Hughes, romanticized his rooms near Place Clichy where he landed in 1924:

“The room was right out of a book and I began to say to myself I guess dreams do come true … Because here I am, living in a Paris garret, writing poems and having champagne for breakfast (because champagne is what we had with our breakfast at the Grand Duc from the half-empty bottles left by unsuspecting guests.

From The Big Sea, 1940.

This particular apartment was the upside of Hughes' first years in Paris; the downside being his financial hardships and the xenophobia he experienced while competing for scarce jobs.

Jessie Fauset, a Phi Beta Kappa scholar and graduate of Cornell, former teacher of Latin and French, literary editor for Crisis:

 “[It’s] lovely just to be oneself and not bothering about color or prejudice,” but noted that her writing might be suffering from such freedom, “I think strangely that’s why my book progresses so slowly, because I am away from the pressure."

From Noblesse Oblige.

Countee Cullen, poet, champion of all things French. More than other expatriate during the Harlem Renaissance, he explored Diaspora Paris and came up against surprising results:

“As an American Negro we are somewhat startled to find that our dark complexion avails us nought among these kindredly tinted people. Language must be the open sesame here, and it must be French.”

From Opportunity, September 1928.

Horace Cayton, psychologist and sociologist, wrote in his 1960s autobiography ‘Long Old Road’ of his trip in spring 1936:

“I walked down rue de la Paix to the Madeleine and then down into the magnificent Place de la Concorde where I turned up the Champs-Elysées. It was early evening and the air was soft and balmy. Crowds of people were sitting in the numerous cafés on either side of the wide street. I was just one of a crowd. I felt free and happy as I had never remembered feeling in the United States. 

Ralph Ellison first heard stories of France brought back from WWI by his favorite cousin. Later he read French literature, and visited French battlefields after D Day. Writing to Richard Wright:

“I saw the bombed buildings… even the negative symbols contain enough of their lost vitality to make one regret he failed to get there sooner. Certainly, it provided me a new perspective through which to look upon the U.S. and brother, the view is frightful.” 

Chester Himes was ambivalent about his stay in France but acknowledged its contribution to his success:

"In Paris, I found many ways to feed myself without disastrous effects. I gathered throwaway scraps in the markets, old bread, stale wine, and hotel proprietors let me live in rooms until I could afford to pay. France did not support me; it let me live and grow strong enough to concentrate on my work, which was writing … I became famous.” 

As told to author Michel Fabre, 1978.

Hazel Scott, the famed pianist arrived at the end of the 50s for a 3-week vacation and stretched it into a 3-year stay:

“I’m not going to say that France is paradise, but I will say this: you can live anywhere if you’ve got the money to live. You can go anywhere if you’ve got the money to go and whomever you marry or date is your business.”  

What Paris Means To Me,  Negro Digest 1961.

Surrealist poet Ted Joans wrote this tribute to his idol poet André Breton:  

“How can I thank you for the exquisite encounter

On rue Bonaparte in Paris (June 1960)

Of a giant in grey and an Afro American sunbeam.

From Spetrophilia, 1966.

  

Richard Wright:

How calm I've felt here in Paris! No more of that tension that grips so hard ... I walk down a street and feel my legs swinging free."

From his journal, 1947.

James Baldwin, through a fictional character in This Morning, This Evening, So Soon:

"But I could not hate the French, because they left me alone. I will always love [Paris]; it is the city that saved my life ... by allowing me to find out who I am."

So what about you? 

What's your love story with Paris? 

During my first trips to Paris (I was a flight attendant) I was less than impressed. The city tried to charm me but I finally swooned at my first crossing of the Pont Neuf. It was a foggy November morning, best spent in the Louvre, where I was headed. I just stopped dead, peered through the haze, felt - rather than saw - the Conciergerie and the lamp posts reaching out to me; I heaved a sigh and that was that. That was 1982. Like a marriage worth its salt, we've had our falling-outs, but as you can see, I just can't leave it alone.